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Hailing from Central America, these beauties are a staple in home aquariums. A firemouth cichlid are great for beginners, and countless people have said how easy it is to keep the freshwater fish in a tank.
Good Paired With: Cat Fish, Tetra Species, Other Firemouths
Origins
The Firemouth Cichlid (Thorichthys meeki) is a tropical fish from the family Cichlidae. It was discovered in 1919 by Walter Brind.
The scientific name of the Firemouth Cichlid comes from the American ichthyologist Seth Eugene Meek. (Ichthyologist means someone who studies fish.) It was named in his honor.
The common name of this fish, Firemouth Cichlid, comes from 2 factors. One, the fiery red coloration around their gills and mouths. Two, the display males do during the breeding season.
To look impressive, these cichlids flare out their gills, and it seems as if their mouth is on fire.
Their natural habitat is Central America. A fish native to Mexico (the Yucatan Peninsula,) El Salvador, Honduras, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Panama, and Costa Rica.
They’ve also been introduced into Hawaii, the US mainland, Puerto Rico, Colombia, and even Singapore!
They live in slow moving ponds, rivers without fast currents, and canals with sandy and muddy bottoms. The cichlid firemouth inhabit the middle and bottom of the water areas.
While Firemouth Cichlids aren’t some of the most vividly colored freshwater fish out there, they still have a unique coloration.
Like many types of Cichlid species, they are sexually dimorphic. However, the differences aren’t extreme. It can be challenging to tell the sex of your fish.
(Don’t bother trying to sex your firemouth cichlid when they are young. Juveniles are almost impossible to tell apart.)
Markings and Colors: The males are brighter than the females and juveniles. The male and the female firemouth gain their coloring when they reach maturity.
It becomes much more noticeable on the adults during the breeding season.
The Firemouth Cichlid has orangish-red or red coloration markings on their neck, abdomen, and gill covers (opercles). However, the males’ markings are always brighter.
The male and female firemouth also have blue spots or turquoise spots on their anal fins. The female usually has a dark spot on her dorsal fin.
Size and Shape: The males tend to be larger than females and have more sharply pointed dorsal and anal fins.
Their fin rays trail longer than females, and their pointed dorsal and anal fins are much longer too. The adult male has a visible genital papilla too.
The females are plumper and fuller looking.
Behavior: In general, males are more aggressive than females. Though, sometimes a female can be quite protective of her eggs.
You may have heard that Firemouths flare their gills and expand their throat sac. All year round, males flare their gills when they want to intimidate or are aggressive, females don’t usually.
Yet, in the breeding season, both male and female fish do it.
On color (for the juveniles), they have a light-gray to olive-gray for most of their body, with a blueish tint. When they reach maturity, their skin becomes almost entirely violet.
The Firemouth Cichlid has another marking that depends on the freshwater fish and environmental conditions.
Sometimes, they have broad, dark-colored lines that extend along the body. They might have a black spot in the middle, or a horizontal stripe.
Their opercles have one black spot on them, called an eye spot, and most of the fins are light pink, with blueish flecks. The eyes are usually a blue color, with black pupils.
In captivity, they grow larger than in the wild. The largest length for males is 6″ (15cm). Females are smaller. They have a very fast growth rate, and reach full size quite quickly.
Like most, but not all fish, they lay eggs. Also, they are mouth breeders.
In the wild, in the warmer months, the water changes. This fuels the beginning of the breeding.
There are changes in the behavior of both sexes, but the males are more noticeable. Their colors and patterns become more vibrant.
They become more aggressive. They fight other males in the fish tank to impress the females.
Over a few days, they will usually pick their mates, which they stay with for the rest of their life. Breeding follows soon after.
The female becomes fertile and begins looking for a place to put her eggs. Firemouths often lay their eggs on a flat rock. Once she is ready, lays the eggs in long rows. The male follows, fertilizing them.
The usual clutch size for a Firemouth is up to several hundred eggs.
They’re excellent parents.
The female does most of the egg looking after. She stays and tends to the eggs, while the male is on guard, protecting the territory. The eggs hatch after 3-4 days. After that, they care for the fry.
Once the fry have hatched, the parents move them to another location and stay there until the babies can swim.
The parents continue to care for the fry. They do this for around six weeks until the babies can take care of themselves.
After this, the parents and fry go their separate ways, though the same couple may raise several broods in the one year.
When you want them to start breeding, raise the tank temperature to 82°F (28°C) over the course of 2 days or so.
When they have paired off, or they are too aggressive to their tank mates, separate the couples from the other fish with a divider. Or put the pairs in a separate breeding tank.
You should have appropriate places for them to put their eggs. Like PVC pipes, upside-down flowerpots, and flat rocks.
They lay about 100 – 500 eggs.
When the fry have hatched, check up on them occasionally for the first week or so, but they don’t need feeding yet. The parents keep them in pits to guard them.
After the 7th or 8th day, they can swim. This is when you should start feeding them.
They grow fast, make sure there’s enough room in the tank.
Recommended high-quality foods for the first three weeks are brine shrimp, crushed flake food, micro worms, and other foods designed for fry.
When they reach three weeks of age, you can introduce dried fish food. When they mature, feed them what you feed other Firemouths.
When you have the fry, it’s essential to change 10% of the water every day with aged water.
(A word of warning, sometimes, first-time parents have been known to eat their hatched young. Don’t panic if this happens. But they stop eating the fry after the second or third time.)
It’s best to keep them with their species, or a pair if you know their sex.
They are relatively large fish, and they tend to be aggressive, so they need plenty of space and swimming room.
A freshwater aquarium with a tank size of fifty gallons (189 L) is a good starting point and makes for a perfect size for a couple.
If you are thinking about keeping a group, a tank size of 100 gallons is excellent (if you can manage it).
Live plants with large leaves is a good idea, such as Sagittaria.
It gives these cichlid fish something to hide behind. Plant them in pots, root surfaces covered with stones around the sides of the tank leaving swimming space in the middle.
That stops the fish from disturbing and moving the aquarium plants.
Have a sand bottom or fine gravel substrate so it’s easy for them to do their burrowing.
Another idea is putting rocks, roots and driftwood and arrange them to make plenty of nooks, crannies, and caves. So they can seek refuge and hide if they need to.
Firemouths taken by @johancistrus
Water Conditions k & Ideal Water Parameters
To keep the water parameters healthy for the fish, filter the tank water often, a good choice is at least once a week. Good water quality and water movement are essential for their health.
Filtering it often keeps nitrite and ammonia out of the water. However, with nitrate, it’s okay to have some in the water conditions, but nothing over 20mg a liter.
An addition of lava rocks can help keep the nitrates under control.
These cichlid fish are susceptible to harmful nitrogen compounds.
Having live vegetation in the aquarium and a good external filter helps maintain water purity and fish health. Cichlids are sensitive to changes in the pH levels, and pollutants.
It’s essential that you change 15-20% of the water weekly.
When you replace the water, you need to clean up the decomposing organic matter. Do this with a gravel cleaner.
When you clean the tank, remove most, but not all the algae growth from the glass panes. You may not like it, but alga is an excellent source of food for the Firemouth cichlid.
Temperature
75–86 °F (23–30 °C) is the recommended tank water temperature range.
This cichlid quite aggressive, and they don’t seem to be afraid of anything. Also territorial, and protect what they believe is theirs.
Because of this, careful planning must go in if you wish to have a harmonious tank.
In general, having lots of tank mates for these fish isn’t the way to go. They’re not very good community fish.
The firemouth cichlid gets very defensive during the breeding season. In some cases, they have been known to eat tinier fish tank mates.
Despite everything mentioned above, if you plan carefully, you can avoid most of these problems.
Step one would be having a big community tank.
Step 2 is to choose the right tank mates! Here are some recommended species.
Others of their species are a good bet. However, have several of them.
A definite no-no 2 males together. Two females aren’t such a good idea either. It’s best to have a mix of both sexes.
Gouramis and Mollies. Many species of Gouramis (except Siamese Fighting Fish) are generally not aggressive. Mollies are excellent too. They are some of the most serene fish around,
Make sure the ones you choose are larger than the Firemouth Cichlids. This will minimize most conflict.
Other ideas would be Catfish and the Tetra group of fish.
All in all, you can keep Firemouths with other species, you have to be careful about which ones you choose. However, if you decide to keep the cichlid by themselves, that’s an excellent idea too.
In the wild, Firemouths, like other Cichlids, have a varied diet. They are primarily carnivorous, but they are omnivores.
They feed upon all sorts of things, such as larvae, invertebrates, small fish, and worms. They also eat some algae.
The food you give them must be high in protein in a varied diet, and you mustn’t overfeed them, and must be high quality.
Newly-bought firemouth cichlid fish are often timid and shy. They aren’t familiar with their new surroundings. At first, they may refuse to be fed, but if you feed them, then leave, they might eat.
(The timidness can last up to several months, so be patient.)
Here are a few foods you should consider feeding your Firemouths.
Bloodworms and white worms are a good option for fulfilling the meaty need. As are brine shrimp and tubifex worms.
(However, shrimp and blood worms are quite meaty. So, they should only be given occasionally. Consider them as a treat food.)
Frozen Foods is good for Firemouth Cichlids too. Examples would include of frozen foods is artificial food such as flakes and tablets, Cyclops, and frozen shrimp.
Vegetables are good for these fish too. Great options are spinach, blanched and finely chopped, and pieces of cucumber.
Leave some of the growth of algae on your tank. They like to eat that in the wild.
Some of the most popular cichlids in the aquarium trade. The firemouth cichlid is an appealing fish, low-maintenance and perfect for a beginner just starting in the aquarium cichlid hobby.
Do you have a Firemouth cichlid, or are planning on getting one? I’d love to hear about it.
Is there something missing from this article, or do you have a question? Let me know in a comment below.
Good Paired With: Other Jaguar Cichlids, Aggressive Cichlid Species
Origins
Jaguar Cichlids are from Central America. These are freshwater fish, living in lakes and basins throughout several countries. Mostly found in Nicaragua, but also in Honduras in the Ulua River and Costa Rica.
In Costa Rica, they’re most prevalent in the Matina River.
Thanks to @fishy_wishes for this photo of a large Jaguar Cichlid
However, now they’ve spread throughout Central America. Including Salvador, Guatemala, Panama, and southern areas of Mexico.
Though they’re sometimes found in South America with other native South American cichlids. Also in the United States or Singapore.
It’s not included on the IUCN red list of threatened species.
The habitats of their preference are usually waters like cloudy lakes and sometimes rivers. They also prefer warmer water, without too much oxygen.
Jaguar Cichlids live in water bodies with muddy bottoms.
However, they can sometimes be found in places with sandy bottoms, such as ponds, springs and canals. They’ve also been bred in captivity for many years now.
Their common name ‘Jaguar Cichlid,’ comes from the pattern of the spots being likened to a Jaguar.
The second part of their scientific name, Parachromis managuensis, comes from the habitat where the first of their species was found.
The ‘holotype’ (the first known specimen of a species) came from Lake Managua in Nicaragua. Today, that lake has a large and thriving population of these fish.
Jaguar Cichlids are known under many different names. Including Aztec Cichlid, Managua Cichlid, and Managuense Cichlid, Spotted Guapote, Guapote Tigre, and the Jaguar Guapote.
(‘Guapote Tigre’ is Spanish, it means the Guapote Tiger/Jaguar.)
A popular fish among fish keepers in home aquariums, readily available in fish stores and online.
In their native habitat, they grow quite large and are sometimes used for human consumption when over a certain size.
Appearance
The majority of their colors consist of tones. But, keep them in clean conditions, and the patterns stand out. The extra colors vary for each.
It can be interesting to see how they develop, and which hue is the most intense.
Sexual Differences: here is how to sex a jaguar cichlid.
Markings and Colours: In the earlier stages of life, the males have more spots. However, as they grow older they lose them. They reach a stage where the spots disappear entirely. The females go through a similar process, but they keep most of theirs.
Another difference is the edging of the males’ fins are brightly colored. The female has coloration but less vibrant.
Size and Shape: The males are always bigger than the females. Usually, there is an inch or so difference in length. They have broader and sharply pointed proctal and dorsal fins.
The females are rounder in shape.
Behavior: In the breeding season, the males become very aggressive, ready to impress the females. Also, but this happens all year round, the females tend to stay in the tank’s bottom area.
(Even if after you’ve followed all the pointers listed above, and you still can’t tell, ask your local vet or expert.)
Jaguar Cichlids are robust fish.
They have light-colored skin, usually pale yellowish-brown, to yellow to bronze. When they are younger, they display dark-grey/black vertical stripes across their body.
However, it completely changes when they become mature.
Slowly, as they reach sexual maturity, the vertical stripes disappear, replaced with dark spots. They are present all over the body but mostly on the gill cover and lower sides.
They sometimes have black bars on the gill covers too.
They have a horizontal line of dots across the lateral line of the bottom of their body. Jaguars also have dark bars extending to the dorsal fin.
The dark bars are some of their most recognisable features.
Like the Jaguar, no two body patterns of the fish are the same, and none of them have the same amount of spots. Their fins are dark-grey/black, becoming significantly darker during the breeding process.
Sometimes, the background color of their skin has a light bluish-green to a purple tint. There’s often a burgundy red tint on the head.
Both sexes have lower lips with two to four small incisor teeth.
Jaguar Cichlids are predatory fish. They have sharp teeth at the back of their throat. It makes hunting easier. They also have sharp edging on the ends of their fins.
These are for protecting themselves from other predatory fish.
In the wild, the average size is 24 inches (60cm), and the females being smaller. However, there’s no reason to panic. You don’t need to punch out a wall to accommodate them!
They don’t grow this big in the aquarium. Males grow to an average of 16″ (40cm), and for females, their sizes are a bit smaller, at 13″ (35cm).
Keep in mind they may not grow to that exact size, and many factors come into play to determine how big each one grows.
They are some of the longest-living Cichlids. Their lifespan is 10-15 years, but most live for around 15. Many experts say with proper care and a healthy diet, you can extend their lifespan.
Breeding
Breeding Jaguar Cichlids isn’t for amateurs, it’s better if you’re a more experienced fish keeper. This fish species get unpredictable during the breeding season.
For Jaguar Cichlids, there isn’t a set time of the year; it depends on the water conditions. Specifically, the temperature. They start to prepare for reproducing when the water gets warmer.
When you want them to begin, raise the temperature. Do this over a period of two days. Don’t shock the fish. The recommended temperature is 82° F (28° C).
The warmer temperatures will trigger a spawning response in some of the aquarium fish.
The male/s get aggressive and can attack tank mates and smaller fish (if you have any.) The other large fish don’t run such of a rish, but sil, Move the Jaguar Cichlids breeding out of that aquarium.
Put them into a particular breeding tank.
(If you don’t have one of these, using a tank divider is a good solution.)
If you are keeping these fish for breeding, it’s best to raise them in a pair from as early in their lives as possible.
A definite no-no is introducing a female straight before they breed. Why? The males have a nasty habit of sometimes killing an unknown female.
These freshwater fish court each other, but this may take a while.
Once the courtship has finished, spawning begins. The usual spot of preference is a flat rock, make sure you include this, and caves, hiding spots and rocks for females to seek refuge.
The female lays the eggs; the male fertilizes them. The number is always variable, but she can lay up to 5000 eggs! However, the usual range is 3000-5000 eggs.
The male protects the unhatched offspring, and the mother looks after the eggs. You may notice the female flaps her fins around the breeding site.
This is so the tank water continually moves to provide oxygenated water for the eggs.
In 3-5 days, the eggs hatch, and the fish larvae emerge. As they are still encased in their yolk sacs, they provide food for the larvae.
No need to feed them during the first week of their lives.
Once they consume the yolk sac, this is when the parents take responsibility for feeding them. The fry are fed organic matter, and they can’t swim at this stage. Let another week pass by.
By now, the fry are free-swimming. The parents can continue to look after them for another six weeks until they are old enough to look after themselves.
However, some Jaguar Cichlids may consume their fry if left in with them for more than two weeks. If they do, remove the fry immediately.
Suggested foods for the fry would be baby brine shrimp. Also, artificial feed designed for fish hatchlings, like baby powder food.
Once they’ve grown into juveniles, feed the same thing you give the other adult fish in the tank.
Looking After Jaguar Cichlids – Aquarium Care
Jaguar Cichlids are aggressive fish. However, with specific aquarium and water conditions, their aggression level can lower.
Looking after these magnificent fish takes planning.
The bigger the tank, the more space they have, the less aggressive they will be. It’s best to keep them in couples.
The best Jaguar Cichlid tank size is something with a large tank capacity, ideally 100 gallons (378 L). Each fish in the fish tanks must have designated territory and plenty of room.
Keep decor and decorations simple and to a minimum, preferably around the perimeters of the tank. They’re going to get knocked over all the time.
As with most Cichlids, include a flat rock as a spawning site. Have hidey-holes and cave-like areas. Arranging Driftwood is a great way to do this. But balance it out with plenty of open swimming space.
Many aquarists advise not to have any plants at all. They like to dig into the substrate and sand. The plants could be uprooted, or torn apart by clumsy maneuvers.
These fish prefer dark, cloudy habitats in the wild with good water movement. The water is usually filled with plant debris.
An easy way to replicate this is to have a handful of leaves in the filter, and a bag of aquarium safe peat. (Change the leaves every two weeks.)
Ensure your filter is powerful, and can do lots of filtration, because they produce a lot of waste!
Make sure all tank equipment is external, as they can do a lot of damage to any internal systems.
Your aquarium must have a tight-fitting lid. Jaguar Cichlids can and will jump out of the tank.
Sometimes these fish can suffer from a problem disease called Ich or White Spot Disease. If that happens, copper based fish medications are available to help treat it.
The copper use must be kept within the proper levels.
Remove any water conditioners while the fish are under this treatment.
Once you’ve set up the tank correctly, looking after Jaguar Cichlids is easy. The water conditions and water quality needs to be regulated. For these fish, use a large simp or canister filter.
Over time, nitrates and phosphates can build up, and water hardness increases. Prolonged exposure to these weaken the fish’s immune system and cause a breeding ground for diseases.
The hardness of the water can increase with the evaporation of the water. You don’t want too much of these, as it’s harmful.
Like a few other Cichlids, these are sensitive to pH instability, pollutants and sudden water changes.
You need to do water changes twice a week, with 20-30% of the water. When you do this, use a gravel cleaner. This removes decomposing organic matter.
This is critical for the animal’s health.
Keep your lighting low or subdued.
Temperature
These fish like the aquarium temperature to be slightly warm. They’re from a tropical climate. The best Jaguar Cichlid water temperature range is 74-79° F (24-28° C).
The higher the tank temperature, the more aggressive the fish. It’s best to keep it around 74° F (24° C).
PH And Hardness
Jaguar Cichlids thrive best with 10-15 dGH water hardness and pH of 7-8.7.
Suitable Tank Mates
These freshwater fish aren’t the most compatible community fish when it comes to other inhabitants of the aquarium. Take a breeding pair of Jaguar Cichlids. Sometimes, mating pairs kill fish that get too close.
However! You can keep them with other fish. You need to be selective, cautious, and monitor them closely. This becomes especially important if you are breeding them.
Make sure you don’t have small fish as their tank mates.
In preparation for the tank mates, you need a large tank. The usual recommended size is 100 gallons, (378 L.)
It leaves lots of space for the fish and the Jaguar Cichlids. You should always choose companions larger than the Jaguar.
Onto the recommended Jaguar Cichlid tank mates.
Others Of Their Species. Raise them together from the start.
Other Cichlid Species. You need large, aggressive Cichlids; this will lower the amount of conflict. Recommended species are Red Terrors, Green Texas Cichlids, and Oscar Fish. Also, the Jack Dempsey, Carpintis Cichlids, and the Convict.
Catfish. These are big fish and have a temperament that doesn’t cause them to get into many conflicts. Choose a large type of Catfish or a common pleco.
Tinfoil Barbs. These fish hail from South-East Asia, and are a peaceful fish. This and their size make them an excellent choice.
Feeding
In the wild, these freshwater fish are carnivorous and predators. Specifically, they are piscivores, which means they eat other fish.
They eat a variety of meat, but their diet mostly consists of other fish and smaller invertebrates.
They are also what is known as ‘raptorial’ feeders. In biology, it means predatory on other animals. It also says that they aren’t fussy eaters, they’ll eat just about anything they can fit in their mouth.
These fish love to eat! They have massive appetites.
Careful not to feed them by hand though, as they may attack it.
Live Foods. This should make up the bulk of their diet, and they eat many types of fish and foods. Variety is essential.
The foods include types of worms such as bloodworms, blackworms, and mealworms. Ghost shrimp is good too. They also like minnows, crayfish, crickets, even small frogs.
Frozen Foods. A good option, as well. You don’t have to feed them only live food, a balance of both of them is excellent as well. Feed them the same foods, only frozen, as mentioned in the live foods.
They’ll usually accept large pieces of frozen and dry foods.
Other Options To Consider
Pellets and Flakes. They don’t always eat these, and shouldn’t make up the bulk of their diet. However, flake food and pellets make an excellent supplement/addition.
Keep in mind sometimes your Jaguar Cichlids may not accept these. The food you choose must high-quality and designed for Cichlids.
Things To Avoid
Many fishkeepers advise against feeder fish bought from pet stores, as these might introduce diseases into the tank.
Meaty Food. Don’t feed them any animal meats used for humans consumption; it makes them ill. Don’t feed them beef heart either for the same reason.
Overfeeding. This is never a good idea. Feeding them daily is the best feeding frequency.
Jaguar Cichlids. Aggressive, territorial, large, and sometimes, the terror of the tank. But they’re beautiful, uniquely colored fish.
Something I forgot? Or have a question? Leave a comment at the end.
Jack Dempsey Cichlids aren’t that hard to take care of. They have many things going for them. Jack Dempsey fish are hardy, low-maintenance, tough fish. They’re also very colorful.
The characteristic iridescent scales are a pleasure to look at in fish tanks. Their dark black skin makes it stand out more. All sorts of colors, from light blue to a rich gold.
Good Paired With: Other Jack Dempsey Fish, Catfish, Goldfish
Origins
The Jack Dempsey Cichlid was named after a professional boxer.
He was from the US, and he wasn’t just any boxer. From 1919 to 1926, (7 years), he reigned as the World Heavyweight Champion!
This cichlid has robust facial features and is an aggressive fish. Despite the reputation for aggressiveness, they aren’t the most out of all the cichlids.
The story behind the scientific name (Rocio octofasciata) is as interesting. The genus name (Rocio) was named after the discoverer’s wife.
Rocio in Spanish means ‘morning dew’. This is likely a reference to the ‘spots’ on the body of the Jack Dempsey.
The other part of the scientific name (octofasciata, the name of the individual freshwater fish). Supposedly comes from the Latin words “octo” (meaning eight) and “fascia” (meaning stripe or belt).
Putting those two together, you get “eight striped.”
They hail from various countries throughout Central America. Including Southern Mexico, Honduras, Guatemala, and Belize, where they’re more commonly known as the Mexican Blue Frontosa.
Whether accidentally or on purpose, the Jack Dempsey fish has been introduced to North America, specfically the United States, Thailand, and Australia.
They’re a freshwater fish, but very adaptable. Their usual habitats include water bodies with slow water movements. Rivers, streams, and drainage ditches!
Also in canals with sandy or muddy bottoms, and waters with warm and murky swamp areas.
They’re not listed on the IUCN Red List, so they’re not threatened.
Readily available in pet stores and for purchase online, usually in a purchase size of 1″ to 2″ long.
These aren’t the most colorful freshwater fish, though they are some of the more colorful central american cichlids. But they make up for it with their unique ‘spots’ and sparkling scales in a variety of colors.
Here is how to sex a Jack Dempsey cichlid.
Markings and Colors: The males are brighter in color and patterns than females. The male sometimes has a black, round spot at the base of the tail, and the center of the body.
In contrast, the female can have a small one on the lower edge of each gill cover and one on the dorsal fin. Females always have fewer spots than the male.
The males also have more sparkly scales and red edging around their anal and dorsal fins.
A male has blue spots directly back from the eyes, and no spots near their mouth. A female has blue markings across the whole cheek.
Size and Shape: The males are bigger than the females with a longer and pointier dorsal fin. They also have a bigger head and a more defined and square jawline.
Behavior: During the breeding season, the behavior, colorations, and attitudes of the fish change. Males become much brighter and their turquoise flecks become more vibrant.
They also become much more aggressive and territorial than usual.
Females sometimes change color too. When she is feeling frisky, sometimes she becomes very dark. The blue specks on her gills and jaw become brighter.
A beautiful Jack Dempsey Cichlid taken by @kevinmeeki
(Even if after you’ve followed all the pointers listed above, and you still can’t tell, ask your local vet or expert.)
When the fish are born, and a juvenile, their coloration is dull. They don’t have any of the spots or sparkly scales Jack Dempsey fish are known for.
The colors develop slowly, taking a year or more to appear. When the fish matures, it becomes vibrant.
They have purple-gray skin, with iridescent scales all over. These come in the colors of light green, blue, and gold, varying in their shades.
There are two grey-black bars on their face. These extend from the top of the head to the eyes and are positioned between the eyes. They also have dark bars going vertically across the body.
Their colors change when they age. If they get stressed, they become paler, and their spots and markings are less vibrant. Of course, the male’s colors become brighter during the breeding season.
The Jack Dempsey is a medium-to-large fish, which grows to a maximum of an adult size of 10″, but the range is 8-10″, (20-25 cm). They are smaller in the wild than they are in the home aquarium
It starts with the breeding season. In the wild, it begins when the temperatures get warmer.
If you are planning to breed them, it’s best to have several fish. Six is a good starter. You’re likely to get more couples.
When the breeding starts, it can be a risky time for other fish in the tank. Watch the behavior of the Jack Dempsey Cichlids, especially the males. If they’re too aggressive, step in.
The males’ colors brighten, and their behavior becomes territorial. This is the time when they begin to pair off. Make sure the pair isn’t bothering the fish in the aquarium. If they are, you need to separate the couple from the others.
If you have a separate tank set up for breeding, put the breeding pair in there. If you don’t, place a divider in the tank.
Jack Dempsey fish are monogamous, and they mate for life.
Have a clean, flat surface for the fish to spawn and lay their eggs on. Flat rocks, upturned flowerpots, or something similar.
They prefer an enclosed spot.
The process of breeding goes like this. The female lays her eggs on the chosen spot. The male fertilizes the eggs after. The parents dig a pit around the area to hide the eggs from sight.
(It’s essential you don’t have plants near they could accidentally dig up!)
The clutch size depends on the female. On average, the female lays 500-800 eggs. Both parents guard the eggs protectively. The male gets even more aggressive at this point.
The eggs take three-six days to hatch. They’re looked after by the parents until they can move by themselves and become free swimming. This usually takes another four days.
By this time, they can eat.
Here are a few foods to consider. Powdered fish food, newly-hatched brine shrimp, and food designed for Cichlid fry. When they develop into juveniles, you can feed them the same food you give your adults.
Breeding Problems And Solutions
Jack Dempseys are easy to breed, but a few problems can arise.
#1 When the fry hatch, the parents split the jobs. The male looks after the territory, keeping everyone safe. The female tends to the unhatched eggs, the larvae and juveniles.
If the male neglects his responsibility or is too excited about it, this may infuriate the female. Usually, nothing happens. However, the parents may eat the eggs and larvae!
If this shows signs of happening, remove the male from.
#2 The female can lay up to 800 eggs. The aquarium may be too small to hold them all. If she shows signs of being overwhelmed, step in.
It may seem cruel, but it’s the best thing you can do. Take 50% to 70% of the fry out of the tank. You can use them as live food for other fish. This leaves the female to concentrate on the remaining hatchlings.
Despite all this, Jack Dempsey Cichlids are attentive parents. They look after their offspring well.
Plan your tank carefully to avoid problems. They are a medium-sized fish. A fifty-five gallon tank size is a good starting point, as it gives them plenty of space.
The bigger the area, the less likely they are to be aggressive.
However, if you have lots of fish in a community tank, go with a bigger tank size, something like a 100 gallon aquarium. Many aquarists recommend the dimensions of 4 ft, or if you can manage it, 5 ft.
Rocks, both flat and those that form caves and hiding places are integral to your tank. Make sure you place the stones first. Jack Dempsey Cichlids dig into the substrate.
If you like it to look natural, decorate it with bogwood.
With plants, you need tough, hardy ones that either grows on the bottom or are floating. Try not to have too many. The ideal ones are Anubias or the Java Fern.
Place the rocks and ground decor in a way that breaks up the aquarium into territories. Also, have vertical structures, so they have something to hide behind.
An important note. When you first buy them, they’re quite shy, awkward, and afraid of their new surroundings.
It’s best to introduce them to their tank mates right from the start.
When you introduce them, make sure the lighting isn’t too bright, and there are places for them to hide.
The smaller the tank, the more fish, the more the Jack Dempsey fish will feel cramped. In turn, it’s likely to be more aggressive. If you’re planning on tank mates, make sure you have a big tank.
Second, is how many Jack Dempsey Cichlids you are planning to keep? They work best with other fish in groups. If you have a pair for breeding, don’t have tank mates.
Third, is the fish that you choose for tank mates. They should be larger and have a peaceful/non-aggressive temperament, like community fish.
When they are juveniles, they get along well with other South American Cichlids. However, they become intolerant of these fish when they age. If any problems arise, move them into a separate tank.
Other Jack Dempseys Cichlids. This one’s a no-brainer. These fish are comfortable with their species.
Goldfish. The relationship works quite well.
Choose a big goldfish and a ‘common’ one, not a ‘fancy’ one. Common goldfish, for example, a koi, get to 14″, so they’re big fish.
Other Types Of Cichlids. Recommended species would be Firemouth Cichlids, Acaras Cichlids, Green Terrors, and Oscars.
Midas Cichlids. Similar in temperment and personality,
Kissing Fish. Avoid if you are a beginner, they are an excellent choice. These are peaceful fish, and they eat nearly the same food Jack Dempseys do.
Banded Corydora, also known as bearded catfish, reach around 4″ inches in length. This, along with its temperament and ease of feeding, makes it a good choice if you’re a beginner.
Catfish are a good idea. They’re large and mind their own business.
Live Foods, such as bloodworm, tubifex, and brine shrimp, should often be offered. They should be a staple in the diet of your fish.
Don’t Forget Plant Material! Finely chopped, foods like blowball leaves, cabbage, and lettuce should be sufficient.
Other Options To Consider
Frozen Food. If you don’t have access to live foods, or are out of your budget range, they’re a good option. Frozen versions of the live feed mentioned above are good.
Milled Seafood. Another excellent choice. Prepare it by thawing.
Things To Avoid
Warm-Blooded Meat isn’t good for them. By ‘warm-blooded,’ I mean meat such as beef and chicken. This is because the amounts and types of proteins in these meats aren’t good for them.
They can’t digest it properly, so it can make them quite sick.
(FYI: Many people talk about offering beef heart to Jack Dempsey Cichlids, but this isn’t a good idea. Beef heart is high in proteins, so should only be provided for a treat.)
Though the Jack Dempsey Cichlid is one species, some breeders and other aquarists have developed different Jack Dempsey Cichlids. Ones that don’t have the usual coloration that the regular fish does.
They have been bred to have vibrant and wildly colorful.
Some of the colorations that are available in the market are Gold, & Electric Blue.
The most common one is called the Electric Blue Jack Dempsey Cichlid. It’s like the original fish. But with vibrant blue for its skin color, smaller, and less aggressive.
It has such a reputation, after all, it was named after a boxer. However, this seemingly rough and ready fish has a secret.
Sure, it is aggressive. However, its beautiful colors, ease of breeding, and maintenance. That’s why its so popular in home aquariums.
Is there something missing from this article, or do you have a question? Let me know in a comment below.
Convict cichlids breeding: Hatching and taking care of the new born fry
Basic Facts
Name: Convict Cichlid
Scientific Name: Amatitlania nigrofasciata
Group: Freshwater
Size Of The Fish: Small/Medium
Temperament: Aggressive and Territorial
Aquarium Size Required: Medium
Where It Swims: All Areas
Care Difficulty Rating: Easy
Good Paired With: Convict Cichlids, Other Aggressive/Semi-Aggressive Cichlid Species
Origins
They come from several countries in Central American region. Guatemala, Panama, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, El Salvador and Honduras.
They’re a freshwater fish species, usually found in streams and creeks. They seem to prefer a habitat of water bodies with a steady stream of running water.
They prefer habitats with hiding spots and protection. Such as rocks and branches that have fallen into the water.
The origin of the common name is simple. They have black stripes vertically across the body, similar to the uniform prisoners in Britain wore. These people were called convicts.
Their dark to light gray color skin make them recognizable. Though they’re not vibrant, they’re still an aesthetically pleasing fish.
How Do You Tell The Difference Between A Male And Female Convict Cichlid?
Here are a few pointers on how to tell the difference between a male and female.
Markings and Colours: Although the male and female have the same characteristic stripes, they’re colored differently. A male has grey color scales, and paler black lines.
What’s unusual about this cichlid fish is the female has more colors. When the female is breeding, she has an orange spot on her body.
She has dark stripes and orange to pink coloration on her dorsal fin and belly.
If the fish has spots on their dorsal fin or anal fin, they’re a male.
Size and Shape: The males are larger than females. Their fins are more longer and pointer, and often they end in tendrils. When a male matures; he develops a fatty lump on his head.
So, his cranium is bigger than females.
Behavior: Males have much more aggressive behavior and territorial in the breeding season.
(Even after you’ve followed the pointers listed above, and you still can’t tell, ask your local vet or expert.)
The usual coloration is blue-grey with around 8-9 black stripes. There are no differences between males and females until the fish reach maturity.
They aren’t as big as some others. In the wild, they’re much smaller than in the aquarium, the usual range being 1.5-3″ (4-7cm).
In the tank, males usually grow to about 6.5″ (17cm) long. Females are around 4.5″ long (11cm).
Their lifespan is 8-10 years. However, many sources say if they’re well cared for, they may live for much longer..
Breeding
These fish breed readily, but they’re difficult to manage. This is due to Convict Cichlids behavior becoming very aggressive during the breeding season.
Another great photo by @gillock1980 – A small one swimming.
It’s crucial to monitor the fish. If you plan on breeding them, it’s best you aren’t a complete beginner.
Before the breeding process, raise the water temperature to 84 °F. Make sure you have flat rocks through the tank. These will be used to lay the eggs.
Have a separate breeding tank or a divider to separate the breeding pair from other fish.
The animal behavior of the males change, and they begin to pair off. (The courtship takes a long time.) Once there’s a pair, take them away from the others.
(Convicts have a different partner each breeding season, but only 1 at a time.) When they have begun breeding, renew ¼ of tank water regularly.
The female will lay her eggs in a spot of her choosing in the aquarium, usually one with a flat surface. The male will fertilize them. The average clutch amount is around 100-200. Then, they split the responsibility.
She looks after the eggs, and he guards her and their unhatched offspring fiercely.
(This is why it’s important to separate them from other fish.)
Like other cichlid species, these fish are attentive parents. The eggs hatch in around three days. The hatchlings can’t swim for another 2-3 days until they are freed from the yolk.
When this happens, they become free-swimming.
During this period, they are guarded by their parents. After this time, (it’s quite rare,) the male might become skittish, and could eat the juveniles.
If this happens, separate him from the female and the eggs.
The parents will continue to look after the fry for another 10-14 days. After that, they look after themselves. Once this happens, move the mother back into the usual aquarium.
Introduce the juveniles into the tank over time.
Once the convict fry have established themselves, start feeding them. You should feed them with milled live food and dry flakes and pellets. Also renew the water twice a week.
They are remarkable when it comes to adaptability. In the wild, they live in a variety of habitats and conditions.
When you plan the tank for their care requirements, there are a few things to take into account. First, the layout of the decor. They prefer habitats with spaces they can hide. There should be plenty of hidey-holes.
(Arranging rocks or lying flower pots is a good idea.)
Other essential items in decor include plants and flat stones. (This is for the females to lay their eggs on if you choose to breed them.) Make sure the plants are tough and hardy.
These fish like to dig in the substrate, delicate plants can be ripped out.
Second, the minimum tank size is 52 gallons, (200 L) is an excellent place to start, for a pair. If you have a group or more fish in a community tank, go bigger.
It’s essential to have a powerful, external filter to mantain the water conditions. The constant flow of substrate into the water from the fish digging can make it clogged.
Water Parameters
Temperature – They’re a tropical freshwater fish, from a warm climate. The best temperature range is 79–84 °F (26–29 °C).
PH And Hardness – For the pH 6.6–7.8 is best, and for the hardness, 6-8 dGH.
Convict Cichlid Tank Mates
Convict Cichlids are some of the most aggressive fish. They attack most fish, sometimes for no reason at all. If provoked, they can and will do damage.
They have sharp teeth and could injure the fish they are bullying.
This isn’t the best fish to keep with others, issues can and will arise. However, you can keep them with some, but under specific conditions, and particular species.
The community tank must be large enough for all the fish. You should also introduce your fish to their tank mates as early in their life as possible.
Adults are more aggressive than juveniles. The aggressiveness decreases if you introduce them early.
Make sure the fish you choose are large, as large as you can afford/accommodate. This minimizes the risk of them being attacked.
Keep them in pairs, not groups. If you have an established couple, don’t bother with tank mates.
Here is a list of the best tank mates.
More Of Their Species.
Other Cichlids. Make sure they are large and have aggressive/semi-aggressive demeanors. Like Firemouth Cichlids, Jewel Cichlids, Blue Acara, the Red Terror, Green Terror, Jack Dempsey and Yellow Lab Cichlids.
Flowerhorn Cichlids
Other Large Fish. Like Tinfoils, Plecos, Irridescent Shark and Clarias.
A convict cichlid diet is classified as omnivorous. In the wild, they eat a variety of things. Invertebrates, such as small insects and worms and they eat many types of algae and plant matter.
They aren’t fussy. Some have compared this fish to the Labrador, as it eats nearly everything you give them.
However, put thought and planning into their food. You don’t want a sick fish. These fish need a plentiful and varied diet.
Feeding them twice a day is best. Don’t make the amount too big.
(Also remove any uneaten food within 24 hours from the tank.)
Flake and Pellets: Many aquarists recommend Flake and Pellet Foods. Make sure the foods that you choose are high-quality, and well-rated by users. Remember to make sure it’s designed for this type of fish.
Live Foods: These fulfill the meaty requirements in their diet. Like Tubifex worms, brine shrimp, ghost shrimp, bloodworms, and Daphnia. They enjoy these. However, remember everything in moderation.
Other Options To Consider
Frozen Foods: Feeding them the same foods (Tubifex worms, brine shrimp blood worms, Daphnia,) just frozen, is an easy and convenient alternative.
Insects & Invertebrates: As we mentioned earlier, an integral part of their diet. If you can, feed them a few live insects every so often. They like Mosquito Larvae.
Things To Avoid
Overfeeding: This could make your fish sick.
Meaty Foods: Don’t feed them any meats humans eat, (lamb, chicken, beef, pork.) It’s bad for their digestive systems.
Popular Types Of Convict Cichlids
They’re a single species. However, there a few variants. They look quite different from the original, the black convict, because they’ve been bred with other colors.
Sometimes, there is a mutation in these fish known as “Leucism.” It happens in many animals, not only fish.
When an individual has this, the pigments in their skin and scales are weak. So the animal seems pale. (It’s not to be confused with Albinism, which is a complete lack of pigments.)
The colorations breeders have developed are gold, white and pink
Pink ones are the only variant to have an official classification, it being Convict Cichlid archocentrus nigrofasciatus.
A beautiful but violent cichlid, this fish is a vibrant red color. It has a temperament and personality to match. There’s a reason its common name is the Red Devil Cichlid!
This cichlid gets quite large when it matures. Very aggressive and territorial. It’s not a good idea to give this cichlid tank companions
If you put another male Red Devil in the tank, they’ll probably try and kill each other, so don’t try that.
They hunt down smaller fish if in the tank and kill them. It can ‘play’ like a dog might, follow the owner around, or beg for food. Sometimes it’ll bite your finger, so be careful!
Red Devil Cichlid Care – Predator Fish? Tank Mates?
Basic Facts
Name: Red Devil Cichlid
Scientific Name: Amphilophus labiatus (Previously Known As Cichlasoma labiatum)
Group: Freshwater
Size Of The Fish: 15.0 inches (38.10 cm)
Temperament: Extremely Aggressive and territorial
Aquarium Size Required: Extra-Large
Where It Swims: Around the bottom
Care Difficulty Rating: Medium
Good Paired With: Very aggressive. It’s best to keep a single pair together in a tank to themselves.
Origins
This freshwater fish comes from Central America in several lakes in Nicaragua, like Lake Managua or Lake Nicaragua. It has been introduced to Hawaii, Puerto Rico, and Singapore.
These freshwater fish were previously known as Cichlasoma labiatum. They like to inhabit open water and are rarely found in rivers.
They can be found swimming along rocks with crevices. The fish do this so if they need to retreat; so they can hide among the rocks.
Their habitat is very dangerous. It’s the only freshwater lake in Central America with a large bull shark population.
Female Red Devil Cichlid taken by @christhefisherman
They have a lifespan of 10 to 12 years or more if looked after correctly and with care. This fish is called the Red Devil for a good reason.
It’s because it has aggressive behavior, large teeth and strong jaws.
Appearance
They are usually a vibrant, rich red. These fish brighten any tank.
Their fins are pointed. especially the anal and dorsal fins. The usual red devil cichlid size is 15″ (38cm).
In the wild, they’ve been known to have dark brown to gray coloration which helps them to match their surroundings.
However, in the aquarium, they’re usually bright red, amber yellow and sometimes white. They have red thick rubbery lips that are occasionally black. In the wild, their mouths are larger.
Red Devil Cichlid Male Or Female?
Here is how to sex a red devil cichlid.
Markings and Colors: Males have a nuchal hump on their heads
Size and Shape: Males are larger than females and have more pointed anal and pelvic fins.
Behavior: During breeding season, males become aggressive and territorial.
Even if after you’ve followed all the pointers listed above, and you still can’t tell, don’t worry. You can ask your local vet or expert.
Breeding
Breeding these fish isn’t the best idea for beginner breeders. They get temperamental when the breeding season rolls around, so you need to be careful.
Before you start the process, make sure the fish you are planning to breed are moved out of the tank. Else the other fish will be harassed endlessly.
Thanks to @f22bcichlids For this Photo of two Red Devil Cichlids
Red Devil Cichlids are monogamous. Once they’ve chosen, they stay with this fish for the rest of their life.
Breeding season can become a hair-raising time for all fish in the tank.
The male ‘courts’ the female, which isn’t how we think of courting. They chase and harass the female. Some aquarists recommend using tank separators to give the female a break.
You wouldn’t want her to be hurt.
They will mate, and the spawning begins. Like other cichlids, put a flat rock for them to put their eggs. The female lays the eggs on the rock, and the male fertilizes them.
On average, she will have a clutch size of 600-700.
Provide plenty of hiding spots in the breeding area. This gives the opportunity for the fish to have a break from each other if needed.
Both parents protect and raise the eggs. The female looks after them will they are in the eggs, and they hatch after three to four days.
Once they have hatched, the parents will transfer the young fry into a pit dug in the sand. They live off their egg sacs for the first week, and after that, they become free swimming.
Now you need to feed them. The recommended food is artificial feed designed for Cichlid fry. Or, finely crushed flake foods. Once they are grown, you can feed them food you feed other Red Devil Cichlids.
Looking After Red Devil Cichlids
Red Devil Cichlids are easy to look after regarding tank maintenance and care. However, their aggressive nature puts them at a definite ‘medium’ care difficulty rating.
On tank conditions, they’re quite easy, provided you keep the tank water clean. They’re not a stickler for specific water, they have high tolerance levels. But keep within the requirements I’ve listed here.
Don’t keep them in a group, either a pair or by themselves.
Try to buy a female and male, and keep them in the tank together. Introduce them to each other as early as possible in life. When they become sexually mature, they’ll be ready for breeding.
This makes the breeding process much more manageable.
The smallest tank size for an individual fish is a 55 gallon tank (208 L). If you’re keeping a pair, you need something much bigger. A 150 gallon tank (568 L) is the optimal size for a couple.
Though they need a large aquarium, it’s worth it for all the issues you’ll avoid.
These fish need need hiding places. Sometimes, the couple need a break from each other. They’re also territorial, so make sure the tank is big enough each fish to have their territory.
Flat rocks are essential, as that is where (like most Cichlids) females do their spawning on. Red Devils love to dig, make sure the plants you put in are artificial.
Mango The Red Devil Cichlid taken by @paco_147g on Instagram
This fish can tolerate most water conditions, keep in mind it will attack heater and filters. They also may damage aquarium equipment as well.
Secure them with suction cups to the walls. You can also hide them behind a series of rocks.
Put some stones on the sides of the tank. Rockwork makes these fish feel safe, gives them hiding places and mostly reduces aggression.
Put barriers on the heaters, so the fish don’t injure themselves.
A quick note on these animals, they can be suseptible to lateral line disease, or hole in the head disease.
IMPORTANT. Have a cover on the tank when you aren’t performing maintenance. Red Devil Cichlids have a nasty habit of jumping out of the aquarium.
Conditions Of The Tank
You need do water changes weekly. These fish are susceptible to changes in water conditions including pollutants and pH instability. Change 15-20% of the water.
Having a canister filter helps avoid unwanted water conditions.
Like Convict Cichlids, these fish are very messy! They produce a lot of waste. Consider having a dual filter. They also move decorations around, make sure everything is fastened down.
When you replace the water, clean the sides of the tank with a gravel cleaner to remove the build-up of decomposing organic matter.
These fish species don’t have specific lighting requirements, keep it normal.
Bottom Lining: The bottom of the tank needs to be lined with sand.
Water Parameters
Water Current: The current in the water must be moderate.
Tank Temperature Red Devil Cichlids need a warm tank. The best tank temperature for these fish is 73-79 °F (23-26 °C). However, when it’s breeding time, the water temperature for the Red Devils will need to be 77 °F (25 °C).
pH and Hardness Their pH needs to be in the range of 6.0-8.0. The tank water needs to be very hard to keep the fish healthy. 6 – 25 dGH.
Suitable Tank Mates
Since this fish is aggressive, it isn’t such a good idea giving it tank mates. If other large males Red Devils are put in the tank with another male, they will try to kill each other.
They hunt down and kill any smaller fish species.
A male and a female pair will sometimes tolerate in the same tank.
Other large Central American fish would sometimes make suitable tank mates. Be sure they can protect themselves. (Examples, Firemouth Cichlids, Convict Cichlids, and Jaguar Cichlids.)
Give the fish plenty of hiding spaces such as rocks, wood, and artificial plants. Don’t bother with real plants.
You can keep Red Devils with other fish when it’s growing up. However, keep in mind. These fish won’t tolerate other fish in their tank when they’ve fully matured.
The only other fish they sometimes tolerate in the same tank is other Red Devils. However, it isn’t reliable, and the level of tolerance depends on the individual fish.
It isn’t guaranteed that putting more hiding spaces stop the fish from being aggressive. This is the same for the fish trying to get more territory and acting rudely to other fish.
In short, it’s best to keep the fish by itself, or in a couple.
What To Feed Red Devil Cichlid?
In the wild, they have a varied diet. Red Devil Cichlids eat worms, small fish, snails and other bottom-living creatures.
Since it’s an omnivore, it needs some vegetable food, but mostly meaty food. Have these fish on a varied diet, don’t overfeed them, and don’t give them the same food all the time.
On feeding frequency, they should have two to three feedings a day, of moderate amounts.
Crustaceans: Prawns or shrimp, whether frozen or fresh, make a good diet staple.
The ideal diet you should give it would be prawns, shrimps, frozen worms or blood worms and vegetable foods.
Other Options To Consider
Vegetable Foods: Like finely chopped spinach and cucumber.
Things To Avoid
Red meat: It’s not part of their natural diet, it has got far too much protein and fat in it for this fish.
What Can I Feed My Baby Red Devil Cichlid?
You can feed your baby red devil cichlid artificial feed designed specifically for fry, or crushed cichlid flakes or pellets.
Despite the hot temper of the fish, and their unpredictability they’re an enjoyable fish to have in your aquarium. Their bright, bold pattern brings vibrant color to the tank.
Is there something missing from this article, or do you have a question? Let me know in a comment below.
The flowerhorn cichlid is known among aquarists for its beautiful range of colors and big nuchal hump on the head of the males.
These include shades such as orange-red, gold, grey, blackish-grey, and other colors with pearls (silvery gray spots on their skin). Slightly aggressive and territorial, flowerhorns are spectacular fish.
A hybrid species with lots of different subspecies and variations, these fish can truly add the wow factor to your tank.
Here is my complete care guide, with all the information you need.
For a breeding pair: 150 gallons minimum (size varies based on the size of fish).
With tank mates: 215 gallons minimum.
Care Difficulty Rating: Intermediate
Good Paired With: In breeding pairs or by themselves, only good with other species when the flowerhorns juveniles.
Water: Freshwater
Origins
Flowerhorn Cichlids are human-made in origin. As a result, they don’t have a natural habitat. These fish are never found somewhere naturally in the wild, if they are, they’ve been introduced by humans.
Red Devil, Trimac Cichlids, and Blood Parrot Cichlids were imported from Central America to Malaysia. The Red devil and the Blood Parrot were bred together, creating the Flowerhorn.
The fish were first produced in Malaysia, Thailand, and Taiwan. Asian fish hobbyists then took a liking to Flowerhorn Cichlids.
United States and European hobbyists keep flowerhorns, but importing Flowerhorn Cichlids is banned in Australia.
The first generation of Flowerhorn cichlids available on the market was the Hua Luo Han. These fish were bred in about 1998. Since then, their hybrids became quite popular.
The Seven Colors Blue Fiery Mouth (also known as the Greenish Gold tiger), was imported from Central America and crossbred with the Jin Gang Blood Parrot from Taiwan.
This breeding made the first breed of Hua Luo Han flowerhorn hybrids. Since the development of other varieties of strains, they’ve risen in popularity.
Their lifespan is about 10-12 years, 12 years being on the rarer end.
Note: The cichlid flowerhorn isn’t to be confused with the parrot cichlid or the blood parrot cichlid.
Though they’re all freshwater fish, the parrot cichlid comes South America, and the blood parrots are a hybrid.
Appearance
Flowerhorns are among the most vividly colored in the cichlid world. Males are more colorful than females, and these fish also have a ‘nuchal hump’ or ‘Kok’ on their foreheads.
Both sexes of this freshwater fish have flat, long bodies, with long dorsal and anal fins extending to the tip of their tails. Their pectoral fins are translucent and much shorter than their others.
Both male and female fish can grow up to 30-40 cm in size.
One of the easiest ways to differentiating male flowerhorn cichlids from other fish is their hump on their forehead. Females don’t have any.
Flowerhorn fish come in an extensive range of assorted colors, from light to dark, purple to red and gold. Their eyes are usually always red with a dark pupil in the centre of their eye.
You’re sure to find your favorite color or type in the extensive range of flowerhorn cichlid strains.
How To Tell The Sex Of A Flowerhorn Cichlid?
Here are a few pointers to help you determine the sex of the fish.
Markings and Colours: Males have more pronounced and vivid colors than females, making them stick out more. Females have black spots on their dorsal fins, and the dorsal fin is quite short.
Another way to tell is the males of these south american cichlids tend to have longer dorsal fins and anal fins.
Size and Body Shape: Males have a different head shape, with a large nuchal hump on their forehead. Males are larger than females.
Behaviour: Another tell-tale trait is when it becomes breeding season, everything on the male’s body gets brighter, and their skin patterns become more vibrant.
Breeding
These cichlids should successfully breed if you follow these steps and ensure they will be as comfortable as possible.
Just a warning, the aggression of the males hightens drastically during this time. Beginner breeders should avoid attempting to breed them.
Before you breed flowerhorns, note this: Most flowerhorns become fully-grown and prepared to reproduce at 1.5-2 years. You usually don’t need to interfere or encourage the spawning procedure.
Important pointers
First, put both cichlids in a tank in which size suits the measurements of the breeding pair.
In the breeding tank, there should be 3-4 females per one male fish, all the same species to avoid hybridization. Don’t get two males. Otherwise, both will try to kill the other.
When the female fish lays her eggs (usually on a flat surface in the breeding tank), the male fish fertilizes them.
If the male fish becomes hostile, you can separate him from the fry using a tank setup with a divider.
Two days later the eggs of the flowerhorns hatch and the youngster freshwater fish will begin swimming about after two days more.
If you can, place these young offspring fish in a separate fry tank away from the parents.
Flowerhorn Cichlid Care
Make sure to monitor your fish, as, unfortunately, it’s common for flowerhorns to suffer from diseases such as a hole in the head and digestive blockages.
Tank Conditions
The flowerhorn is a slightly high maintenance fish and needs a huge tank with excellent water quality, and a lot of water flow. It’s best to have a canister filter with powerful filtration.
They need lots of space in their aquariums.
Flowerhorns make a mess when they eat, and these fish thrive best in clear water.
The aquarium light should be muted and not too bright.
These fish like digging into the gravel substrate, so having plants isn’t the best idea, rocks are a better choice to have on the bottom.
You should also clean the water weekly, with regular water changes to keep the water conditions under control.
Seventy-five gallons is the minimum tank size for an individual. For a breeding pair, flowerhorns require 150 gallons or more. But it depends on the size of the fish.
Water Parameters – PH And Hardness
Keeping the hardness and pH in good order with frequent water changes is very important to the health of the flowerhorn cichlid. If the parameters aren’t right, the fish will get sick.
pH: 7.4 – 8.0.
Hardness: 9-20 dGH
Water Parameters – Water Temperature
The best water temperature for these flowerhorns is 78.8-86 degrees Fahrenheit.
Suitable Tank Mates
It’s best to keep these in a maximum of one breeding pair of these fish per tank, or one individual. Not one tank mate, even another flowerhorn.
You can raise flowerhorns together as juveniles, but once they reach adulthood, separate the adults fish, so each has their territory to make their own ‘homes.’
Avoid having other tank mates, especially those of different species, because fights and the other fish tankmates being hurt will be a common occurrence.
Their compatibility is essentially zero, they’re not the best community aquarium fish.
What To Feed Flowerhorn Cichlid?
You can feed these large fish directly from your hand, as flowerhorns generally aren’t afraid of you, but careful, as bolder ones will bite!
If the fish refuse to eat, usually a clear sign they’re sick, as these cichlids have a very hearty appetite, and though they’ll eat just about anything, make sure you feed them the correct food.
Fish keepers say to feed the flowerhorns about two to three times a day, and adjust the amount as necessary. They need a variety of different things in their diet, and lots of protein.
Dry or live food such as krill, bloodworms, worms, low-fat fish, smaller fish species, even crickets
Spirulina
Other Options To Consider
These are more treat foods, but you can still feed flowerhorns these occasionally.
Pieces of calamari
Grasshoppers
Earthworms
Things To Avoid
Red meat or meat used for people consumption, it’s very bad for the digestive system of a flower horn cichlid.
Recommended Foods For Fry
Here’s a list of recommended foods for fry. Keep in mind you can usually find commercially made fry food at most aquarium stores.
(Baby) brine shrimp
Egg yolk
Infusoria
Microworms
Vinegar eels
Green water
Specially made fry foods you can find at aquarium stores
Things To Avoid
For fry, avoid big foods like flakes, as they may end up being as big as the fry themselves!
Types Of Flowerhorn Cichlids
Here is a list of the different types of flowerhorn cichlids.
KamFa
Kamalau (KML, Golden Monkey, or Kamfas)
Chinese Zhen Zhu (ZZ)
Thai Silk (Titanium Flower Horn)
Red Dragon Flowerhorn
Gold Flowerhorn (Golden Base)
Faders
Red Texas
King Kong Parrots
Red Ingots
Their species also include Strains (fish bred from two different parent fish species). An example of a Strain would be a Golden Monkey female with a Zhen Zhu male, making an IndoMalau.
Some of the Flowerhorn Strains include –
Coronation Link
Tornado Effect
Perfect Harmony
Unique Track
Absolute Wonder
Ancient Warship
Legacy
Creative Measure
Exotic Marvel
Scarlet Passion
Rising Rainbow
Living Legend
Royal Deegre
Quantum Grace
Pacific Miracle
Your Cichlid Questions Answered
What Is The Puffy Part On A Flowerhorn Cichlid?
The puffy part is called a nuchal hump or Kok. It appears on the male flowerhorns and not the females.
Where To Buy Flowerhorn Cichlid?
In general, the best place to buy one would generally be online and get it delivered or buy the flowerhorn at your local aquarium store.
Why Won’t My Flowerhorn Cichlid Eat The Pellets?
One of the most common reasons why your flowerhorn won’t eat food is because it may be stressed.
Stress has a significant effect on these cichlids and will cause the fish to lose their appetite for a couple of days.
Uneaten pellets and food will cause ammonia. You can utilize a small siphon or turkey baster to get rid of them.
Can I Keep My Flowerhorn Cichlid With An Oscar?
Indeed you can, but ensure the oscar is mature and defend itself from the flowerhorn’s attacks. If the flowerhorn is fully grown and powerful, it may kill or attempt to kill the oscar.
Before you buy the fish, note:
You put the oscar in the tank before the flowerhorn; the flowerhorn will not accept the oscar in its tank if you put the oscar in after the flowerhorn.
Both fish are the same size as each other
The tank is a suitable large size
If you’re looking for a peaceful fish with peaceful tank mates, flowerhorns aren’t a good idea. Sometimes, the flowerhorn will be friendly with its tank mates.
But, it depends on the size of the tank, and the nature of the flowerhorn.
Can Flowerhorn Live With Cichlids?
Yes, but keeping a cichlid/s with flowerhorns is a challenge. Being an aggressive fish, flowerhorn cichlids won’t take kindly to multiple tank mates, even if it’s just one other.
How Big Do Flowerhorn Cichlids Get?
Being 16″ (40.64cm) at a maximum and 12″ (30.48cm) at a minimum in length, flowerhorns are one huge fish!
Are Flowerhorns Aggressive?
Yes. Flowerhorns generally are aggressive. Male flowerhorns are especially aggressive during breeding.
Flowerhorns are almost otherworldly, due to their unique range of coloration and nuchal humps, a truly spectacular fish.
Though these fish are a bit to handle and manage, it’s definitely worth it if you’re up for this challenge in the aquarium hobby.
Is there something missing from this article, or do you have a question? Let me know in a comment below.
Who doesn’t love beautiful fish with bright, vivid coloration? They bring real interest to any tank, and cichlids are no exception when it comes to bright colors. Sometimes, your fish look a little dull.
Don’t worry. There is a solution. Choosing the right food, feed specially designed to enhance the color of the cichlid.
Here, I’ll review all the best cichlid food for colors.
The best food for cichlid color is Omega One Super Color Cichlid Pellets. Read my full review below.
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Omega One Super Color Cichlid Pellets
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Rich in omega 3, fatty acids, and omega 6, as well as beta carotenes. The omega one super color is designed to enhance colors.
But also help cichlids have a balanced diet with access to the nutrients they need.
Features
Feeding Directions – 3 times daily, only as much as fish can consume in 2 minutes.
Flakes
Ingredients
Whole Salmon
Whole Herring
Black Cod
Halibut
Whole Shrimp
Wheat Flour
Wheat Gluten
Fresh Kelp
Lecithin
Astaxanthin
L-Ascorbyl-2-Phosphate
Natural and Artificial Colors
Vitamin A Acetate
Vitamin D3 Supplement
Vitamin E Supplement
Vitamin B12 Supplement
Riboflavin
Niacin
Pantothenic Acid
Folic Acid
Biotin
Inositol
Tocopherol
Ethoxyquin
Pros
Natural ingredients
No artificially produced ingredients, all components are high-quality
Designed for cleaner tanks and less fish waste
Easy to digest
No fish meal, made of whole ingredients
Suitable for all cichlids, South American and African
Cons
Some found they crumbled too easily
Some found the flakes weren’t that big
Not suitable as a complete supplement for adults, best used in combination with something else
Some found they smelled funny
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NorthFin Cichlid Food
Made with premium ingredients such as organic kelp, Spirulina, herring meal, and whole antarctic krill meal, this cichlid food is rich in nutrients and natural ingredients.
Features
Feeding Directions – 1-2 times daily, only what fish consume in 5 minutes or less
Slow sinking pellets
Made in Canada
Ingredients
Whole Antarctic Krill Meal
High Omega-3
Herring Meal
Whole Sardine Meal
Wheat Flour
Kelp
Spirulina
Garlic
Astaxanthin
Calcium Montmorillonite Clay
Vitamin A Acetate
L-Ascorbyl-2-Polyphosphate
D-Activated Animal-Sterol
DL Alphatocopherol
Vitamin B12 Supplement
Riboflavin Supplement
Niacin
Pantothenic Acid, Thiamine
Calcium Pantothenate
Pyridoxine Hydrochloride
Folic Acid, Biotin
Choline Chloride
Cobalt Sulfate
Ferrous Sulfate
Manganese Sulfate
Selenium
Zinc
Pros
The formula is free of any artificial ingredients, hormones, and products
Fast increases the quality of the cichlids’ colors
Very high quality
Designed, so it doesn’t cloud the water in the fish tank
A scientifically researched and tested formula from a company that was founded in 1951, Tetra has years of tried and tested experience in creating a great cichlid food.
Features
Feeding Directions – 2-3 times daily, as much as fish can eat in 3-4 mins
Floating Flakes
Ingredients
Fish Meal
Ground Brown Rice
Dried Yeast
Shrimp Meal
Potato Protein
Dehulled Soybean Meal
Wheat Gluten
Soybean Oil
Fish Oil
Sorbitol
Lecithin
L-Lysine Monochlorhydride
Algae Meal
Feeding Oat Meal
Yeast Extract
Vitamin C
Riboflavin-5-Phosphate
Inositol
Niacin
L-Ascorbyl-2-Polyphosphate
D-Calcium Pantothenate
A-Tocopherol-Acetate
Thiamine Mononitrate
Pyridoxine Hydrochloride
Vitamin A Palmitate
Menadione Sodium Bisulfite Complex
Biotin
Vit. B12 Supplement
Cholecalciferol
Color Includes: Beta-Carotene, Annatto Extract, Blue 2 Lake, Red 3, Yellow 5 Lake, Yellow 6 Lake
Ethoxyquin
Pros
Enhanced with Vitamin C
Available in a variety of different size containers
Lots of nutrition and necessary nutrients
The flakes don’t disintegrate, less waste and a cleaner fish tank
Great for all cichlids
Excellent value for the price
Cons
The flakes are quite big. You’ll need to cut them up for smaller cichlids.
Combining balanced nutrition with added ingredients to help promote happy and vibrant fish, this a great all-rounder food for all sorts of cichlids from big to small.
Features
Feeding Directions – Small amount once daily, adjust amount as necessary
Slow sinking pellets
Ingredients
Whole Fish Meal
Whole Wheat Flour
Whole Dried Krill
Wheat Gluten Meal
Soybean Meal
Squid Meal
Dried Yeast
Fish Oil
Kelp Meal
Garlic
Spirulina
Marigold Powder
Chili Powder
Natural Astaxanthin
Choline Chloride
Calcium Propionate
L-ascorbyl-2-polyphosphate
Vitamin A Acetate
Cholecalciferol
Riboflavin Supplement
Vitamin B12 Supplement
Niacin
Menadione Sodium Bisulphite Complex
Folic acid
Thiamine
Pyridoxine Hydrochloride
Calcium Pantothenate
Biotin
DL-Alphatocopherol
Manganese sulfate
Cobalt sulfate
Ferrous Sulfate
Copper Sulfate
Pros
Designed not to cloud the water
Available in a range of sizes for different sized cichlids
Designed to satisfy even the picky eaters
Great, affordable price
Cons
Some found they didn’t float. They were more like sinking pellets
Designed for cichlids with an enhanced formula for better nutrients and colors, this contains no artificial ingredients. New life Spectrum makes a variety of different cichlid foods, perfect for any need.
Features
Feeding Directions – 1-2 times daily
Sinking pellets
Ingredients
Whole Antarctic Krill
Whole Wheat Flour
Whole Menhaden Fish* Ulva Seaweed
Chlorella Seaweed
Wakame Seaweed
Kelp
Garlic
Ginger
Astaxanthin
Spirulina
Omega-3 Fish Oil Marigold
Zeaxanthin
Capsanthin
Eucheuma cottonii
Chondrus crispus
Spinosum Seaweed
Bentonite Clay
Sea Salt
Vitamin A Acetate
Vitamin D Supplement
Vitamin B12 Supplement
Niacin
Folic Acid
Biotin
Thiamine Hydrochloride
Riboflavin Supplement,
Pyridoxine Hydrochloride
Calcium Pantothenate
L-Ascorbyl-2-Polyphosphate (Vitamin C)
Choline Chloride
Ethylenediamine Dihydroiodide
Cobalt Sulfate
Ferrous Sulfate
Manganese Sulfate
Pros
Made in the USA
Full of great ingredients designed for happy, healthy fish
All sorts of cichlids love them
Will even satisfy picky eaters
Brings out colors quite well
Cons
The pellets are tiny, so may not suit larger cichlids
They sink, and uneaten ones might get lost in the substrate, making the tank messy
Primarily composed of Spirulina, (biomass made of blue/green algae), these are protein-rich flakes suited for almost any type of fish, not just cichlids.
Features
Feeding Directions – 1-2 times daily, only what fish can consume in 5 minutes or less
Flakes
Ingredients
Salmon Fish Meal
Spirulina Algae Meal
Soy Flour
Wheat Flour
Brewers Dried Yeast
Corn Starch
Dried Krill Meal
Shrimp Meal
Plankton Meal
Lecithin
Vegetable Oil
Vitamin A Supplement
Vitamin B12 Supplement
Vitamin D3 Supplement
Vitamin E Supplement
L-Ascorbyl-2-Polyphosphate
Pros
Not too many ingredients, only the natural essentials are included
Spirulina is rich in protein and is a natural source of 7 different vitamins
Made in the USA
Natural color enhancers included
Good value for the price
Cons
Unfortunately, it creates lots of waste
Inconsistent size of the flakes, some are huge and some re small
It is created with a veggie-based formula and plenty of natural, nutrient-full ingredients. These are high in protein and essential vitamins and omega-3, fatty acids, and omega 6.
Here are some ways to help your African cichlids color improve.
Feed them live/freeze-dried foods and others as well so they get the nutrients they need
Make sure there’s not too much or too little tank lighting.
Make sure to do regular water changes to keep the cichlids healthy.
Here’s an excellent video by Cichlidscape on Youtube, explaining more solutions to this problem.
Why Are My African Cichlids Losing Color?
Here are a few possible reasons why your African cichlids are losing color.
They may not have a varied enough diet, commercial foods and pellets aren’t enough by themselves
The water quality might not be good enough
Perhaps there’s not enough tank lighting or too much tank lighting
Do Cichlids Change Color?
Yes, many cichlids do change color as they age, or to attract a mate during the breeding season.
Does Color Enhancing Fish Food Work?
Yes, color enhancing fish food does work if used correctly. To promote color enhancement, the foods contain high levels of carotenoids. A nutrient suited for creating brighter colors.
However, cichlids need a balanced diet, and commercial food with color enhancers alone doesn’t cut it.
Hopefully, this post helped you find the best food to help your cichlids showcase their beautiful, bright coloring. It’s sure to enhance the wow factor in their coloration and add real interest to your tank.
Do you have any product recommendations or general tips on how to enhance the color of your cichlids? I’m sure other readers would appreciate your knowledge, leave a comment below.
What is a peacock cichlid? The Peacock Cichlid, (Aulonocara nyassae) is one of the many African Cichlids. It comes from the family Cichlidae, which includes all known Cichlid species.
Many types of Peacock Cichlid come from Lake Malawi in Africa.
Appearance
Cichlids are some of the brightest and vibrant fish. These indeed live up to the expectations.
They’re a sexually dimorphic species. The males and females have many physical differences.
Here are a few pointers on how to sex peacock cichlid.
Markings and Colours: Males are more colorful and vibrant than their counterparts. Especially in the breeding seasons.
Males sometimes have what’s called “egg spots,” on their anal fins. They are unusual, and they are unique to the tribe haplochromine.
According to Plos One, they seem to be for showing the male is healthy and may make it easier for the fish to find a mate. Some fish will go to the point of targeting others who don’t have egg spots.
Size and Shape: Usually, the males are bigger than the females, sometimes up to an inch (2.5cm) longer. The anal, dorsal and caudal fins of the male fish are longer.
Behavior: Males become flamboyant and aggressive in the breeding season, to impress the females. They also may become occupied with building a nest or cave, a suitable place for reproduction.
With the females, change in behavior is a bit more subtle. Two fish preparing to spawn will spend much time together. However, a group of females tend to ignore the other cichlids in the tank.
Breeding females often carry their eggs in their mouth to protect their young.
(If you still can’t tell, ask your local vet or expert.)
How big does a peacock cichlid get? Fully grown they reach lengths of 4-7 inches, (10-18cm).
Except in the breeding season, both sexes tend to lead solitary lifestyles. They’re territorial, but not overly aggressive.
If you want to breed them at home, here is a list of things to remember.
Set up a group of fish. A ratio of 1 male to 3-4 females is a good idea.
If you have different species in the same tank, make sure they look very different to avoid hybridization.
They lay and hatch eggs, and they’re mouth breeders. Once the eggs are laid and fertilized, the female keeps them in her mouth to protect them as they grow.
They are incubated and develop in her mouth for two-three weeks.
If the female is a first-time mother, she will lay around ten eggs. If she’s given birth before, she will lay around 30 eggs. Of course, it varies.
After the baby fish, (called fry), hatch, the mother looks after them for a week or so. Then they look after themselves.
How long does it take for peacock cichlid fry to hatch? Around 2 to 4 weeks.
How to tell if a peacock cichlid is holding? Here is an excellent video from Prime Time Aquatics explaining how to tell.
Cichlids from Lake Malawi are naturally aggressive. Often, when they are placed in an aquarium or similar confined space, there is usually an increase in aggressive behavior.
It’s essential to have a tank large enough to accommodate them. They need places to seek refuge, like aquarium plants or rocks.
Plan your tank carefully to avoid common problems. These include bigger fish preying on smaller ones and clashes between fish. It may prevent two different species breeding with each other. (Hybridization.)
The minimum recommended tank size (water capacity) is a 50 gallon tank. A 100 gallon tank is an excellent tank size for a group of fish.
Pick the size of your tank by 1/2 an inch of fish per gallon. As they swim in open water, tall tanks offer more space.
Despite many males being solitary, they do form schools. They swim together, feeding on the bottom of the lake.
In the aquarium, the fish forming schools is essential to minimize conflict. There are usually one male to 3-4 females, they’re polygamous. Keep this ratio to help the formation of schools.
They need lots of space to move around in. Their care and maintenance are like that of the Mbuna group.
Here is a care guide on ideal conditions for the tank to have.
Tank Conditions
They’re endemic to Lake Malawi and not very adaptable. They require fixed water parameters.
PH Levels And Water Hardness
In the natural conditions of their habitat, the water absorbs bicarbonate and calcium from the bedrock on the bottom of the lake.
The minerals release into the water, making it hard, and it has a neutral pH.
The pH needs to be 7.5 to 8.5.
Make sure the pH is the exact amount. If you put the fish in an environment with water parameters such as lower pH levels, it will stress them out, and it could contract diseases.
Vibrant Blue Peacock taken by @billcamp11
Water Temperature
Lake Malawi is situated almost in the middle of the Tropic of Capricorn and the Equator. It has a tropical climate. The water is quite warm.
The recommended tank temperature for Peacock Cichlids is 74-80° Fahrenheit, (23-27° Celsius). Remember to maintain the water temperature steadily.
Sudden changes – even in the recommended range – make the fish uncomfortable. A useful tool to maintain the temperature is an aquarium heater.
Useful Tools
The aquarium trade has created a few handy tools to make tank maintenance easier. Here are some of the best for these fish.
Rift Lake Salts
Rift Lake Salts create and maintain ideal water chemistry for your fish. They’re sometimes known as African Cichlid Salt. They contain bicarbonate and calcium, minerals prominent in Lake Malawi.
When you dissolve them in the tank water, the Rift Lake Salts maintain the pH and increase the hardness of the water. This imitates the water conditions of where these fish come from.
Dissolve it in a bucket of water before adding it to the tank.
The Cichlid Lake Salt by Seachem is an excellent choice, especially designed for African Cichlids, like the peacock cichlid.
The salt mix isn’t the only way you can maintain the water parameters
Rocks such as tufa and substrates such as coral sand contain minerals that are calcium-rich. These substances slowly release bicarbonate and calcium into the water.
Though protective of their territory, they can live alongside other species.
Here are some ideas for Peacock Cichlids tank mates.
Suggested companions include other cichlids, (preferably non-aggressive). Also other species with community temperament.
Other members of the tribe Peacocks come from, (haplochromine), share a similar temperament. Utaka Cichlids are an excellent choice.
Unsuitable tank mates are Zebra Cichlids and fish from the Mbuna genus.
Feeding
Peacock Cichlids are insectivores. Unlike some of the other Lake Malawi Cichlids, whose diet consists mostly of vegetation. These are bigger and hunt in the open water, and have a much more varied diet.
They are a benthic species. This means they feed and live in the lower or deeper areas of water bodies, sifting through the substrate for food.
Feed them small amounts 2-3 times a day, rather than one big feed.
Remove any uneaten food from the tank. This prevents ammonia spikes and blockages in the filter.
Many people recommend these types of fish foods: wafers, granules and a sinking cichlid pellet. But make sure to give them a varied diet. Feeding them specific types of fresh and frozen foods is a good idea.
You must be careful when it comes to feeding them foods that aren’t specific fish foods.
Here are a few pointers.
Feed them different types of vegetables, such as cucumber, broccoli, peas, and lettuce. Also Japanese seaweed or nori.
Cucumber: Chop into inch long chunks. Weigh them down with something heavy, so they sink to the bottom. It keeping them occupied, as they slowly demolish the chunk.
Peas: De-shell the peas unless you are using baby peas. If you want to make them softer, boil them.
Washed, and finely chopping, any of the above foods is a good way to prepare them, or blending them and freezing them into small cubes.
Garlic is also another great option. Chop finely and mix it with something else. Feeding them small amounts of garlic helps Peacock Cichlids with their health and immune system.
These must only be fed to your fish in moderation.
Other Options To Consider
Despite being insectivores, Peacock Cichlids will be content on a diet with meat in it. Good options include frozen and freeze-dried bloodworms, brine shrimp, and daphnia.
You can also feed them live brine shrimp.
Things To Avoid
Other Types Of Meat: Beef, chicken, lamb and other meats are a definite no. Peacock and other Lake Malawi Cichlids have digestive systems not suited to meat.
Tubifex worms are a bad idea because they cause Malawi bloating.
OB Peacock – (A hybrid, created with a male Aulonocara with an OB female mbuna.)
(The Emperor Cichlid mentioned above isn’t to be confused with the Giant Cichlid, (Boulengerochromis microlepis). It’s a species which comes from Lake Tanganyika in Africa.)
Peacock Cichlids make an excellent, low-maintenance pet. Some of the brightest and most colorful fish, sure to bring some vibrancy to your aquarium.
Is there something missing from this article, or do you have a question? Let me know in a comment below.
Promoting a balanced diet with protein-based food includes natural color enhancers. It supports their immune system, helping them live a long life — great fish food for tetras.
Features
Feeding Directions – Feed 2-3 times daily only as much as your fish consume within a few minutes.
They float in the middle of the tank level.
Ingredients
Fish meal
Torula dried yeast
Shrimp meal
Ground brown rice
Dried potato products
Wheat gluten
Corn flour
Soybean oil
Fish oil
Gelatin
Sorbitol
Dehulled soybean meal
L-lysine monohydrochloride
Algae meal
Lecithin
Inositol
Vitamin C
Pros
Doesn’t cloud the water
Designed for top and middle feeding cichlids
Contains biotin for a healthy metabolism
Great for African cichlids
Affordable
Hold together in the water
Great value for the price
Promotes growth
Cons
You’ll need to cut the flakes up if you have smaller cichlids
Messy for larger cichlids
It’s not supposed to, but some found it clouds the water
This is the more meat and insect-based formula available from Northfin.
Designed to enhance their size, color, and wellbeing with the best natural ingredients, this food is easy to digest and full of nutrients — some of the best cichlid foods.
Features
Feeding Directions – 1-2 times daily, only as much as fish consume in 5 minutes or less
Sinking pellets
Ingredients
Antarctic Krill
High Omega-3 (DHA)
Herring Meal
Whole Sardine Meal
Wheat Flour
Kelp, Spirulina, Garlic
Astaxanthin
Calcium Montmorillonite Clay
Vitamin A Acetate
L-Ascorbyl-2-Polyphosphate
D-Activated Animal-Sterol
DL Alphatocopherol
Vitamin B12 Supplement
Riboflavin Supplement
Niacin, Pantothenic Acid
Thiamine
Calcium Pantothenate
Pyridoxine Hydrochloride
Folic Acid
Biotin
Choline Chloride
Cobalt Sulfate
Ferrous Sulfate
Manganese Sulfate
Selenium
Zinc
Pros
No artificial ingredients, all things included are of the highest quality
Great for African cichlids
Doesn’t cloud up the water
Satisfies even picky eaters
Excellent size for a variety of different cichlids
Cons
Quite expensive, but worth the investment
Can get stuck in the rocks or substrate at the bottom of the tank
TetraCichlid Cichlid Crisps Advanced Clear Water Formula
Created explicitly for clearer water, less waste, and more nutrition in a smaller, easily digestible flake. These float and don’t clog up the tank, and keep fish happy and healthy.
Features
Feeding Directions – 1-2 daily in small batches, this food is concentrated
Floating flakes
Ingredients
Fishes Meal
Shrimp Meal
Pros
Designed to keep the water clear
Helps produce vibrant colors in fish, as well as promoting growing
Designed for top and mid feeding cichlids
Cons
Messy if you feed it to larger fish
Careful not to overfeed, otherwise the uneaten food could clog up the filtering system
Expensive
Some found it wasn’t very good value for the price
About: Joseph Caparatta is the owner of UniqueCorals. He worked in the marine aquarium industry for over two decades. During his studies, he traveled, lectured, and learned as much as possible about fishkeeping.
What We Love: Unique Corals has excellent, clear photos and endless advice on aquarium equipment.
They have a web series called Water Box Battle, where people compete to make the best aquascaping in a small tank. Go check it out!
About: Bulk Reef Supply, founded in 2007 by two friends, Ryan Batcheller, and Andrew Duneman, spend their time and effort to give helpful aquarium equipment solutions and sales to fishkeepers.
What We Love: Bulk Reef Supply has helpful tips and tricks for keeping your fish happy. They have an excellent youtube channel full of fishkeeping videos, plus much more!
About: JBJ Aquariums is an online marine aquarium company. They sell almost everything you need to start a tank. Including user guides, a great support center, and lots more helpful features.
What We Love: The amount of photos and range of products JBJ Aquariums have is awe-inspiring! Their blog keeps you up to date with everything going on in the company, plus useful information.
About: Keith Berkelhamer founded ReefBum, and his goal is to help the average marine hobbyist create the perfect tank. Keith shares his knowledge through photos and aquarium broadcasts videos.
He hopes to inspire the world of marine hobbyists.
What We Love: Reefbum often shares helpful and interesting articles on aquarium help. Keith also has a page including the different aquarium equipment he uses for his tanks.
About: Reef Builders, founded by Ryan Gripp in 2006, focuses on the marine industry of keeping saltwater tanks.
What We Love: They have fascinating articles full of facts on types of marine life in different places. There are also a ton of videos, from tank showcases to everything you need to know about a species of animal.
About: Reefs.com is an online fish and coral forum including information on Reef Care for beginners and advanced aquarists, with reef equipment advice, DIY projects, and more!
What We Love: Reefs.com have an excellent fish forum and exciting marine news. This is a place where you can always learn something new!
An excellent magazine and an app for your phone are some of the many great features.
About: AquaNerd posts about ocean discoveries, equipment notices, a gallery full of all their favorite aquarium events, and more!
What We Love: They have excellent posts on aquarium equipment info. Also quite a few hilarious aquarium memes! Well worth a look if you need a laugh. 🙂
About: Saltwater Aquarium Blog is an online guide to creating the perfect saltwater aquarium. They’ve got fact files on saltwater fish, tank guides/aquarium setup, and an aquarium book series.
What We Love: Plenty of helpful aquarium equipment reviews. Also lots of amusing articles about the author’s experiences as a fishkeeper.
About: Scott Fletcher is the creator of Reef-Fin and has a great passion for Reef and fish keeping. He aims to help and encourage others into the hobby and support them on their journey.
What We Love: This site has an excellent section for starting your first aquarium, including tank setup, tank maintenance, and a helpful beginner’s guide.
About: Andrej Brummer is a biological scientist who has a great interest in the world of marine animals and plants.
He grew up in New Zealand and Australia, and there learned a love for ocean conservation and aquarium keeping.
What We Love: Saltwater Aquarium Advice has vibrant, clear pictures, and lots of excellent aquarium advice, including maintaining your coral, disease solutions, and other helpful topics.
About: Saltwater Smarts was created by Jeff Kurtz and Chris Aldrich to help fellow hobbyists create a successful saltwater aquarium.
What We Love: This blog has a unique page about an aquarium show called “Salt Speak.” In each episode Chris Aldrich (Co-founder of Saltwater Smarts) invites a fellow hobbyist to chat about topics related to the aquarium hobby.
About: Red Sea is an online aquarium source full of reef solutions, including aquarium equipment info, reef care products, and setup guides.
What We Love: This site has excellent “reef recipes”, guides to set up your aquarium. They’ve also got great information on aquarium products full of all the facts you need to know.
About: In 1999 German natural history publisher Matthias Schmidt suggested to marine aquarist and author Daniel Knop to join him on creating an aquarium magazine.
Their goal is to keep blogging on their online coral magazine and to give out useful aquarium advice.
What We Love: Coral Magazine is an engaging digital publication full of issues on new aquarium equipment, aquarium news, and more exciting stories.
About: Justin Hester is the founder over at ReefNation. Justin grew up in the southern coasts of Long Island, in NY.
When he moved to the Midwest in the ’90s, that longing to smell salty air again was what guided to him to keep a saltwater coral tank and eventually start ReefNation.
What We Love: ReefNation has excellent product reviews, a slick coral store, fish profiles, and loads more great articles.
About: Aquarium Co-op has an extensive list of information on Reef keeping, including water chemistry, plant supplies, DIY, tank decor, product reviews, and more.
What We Love: This site has a vast range of helpful videos, including aquarium plant info, how to treat disease, fish recommendations, and other useful tips.
About: Fish Keeping World is an aquarium blog that can give you everything you need to know about freshwater fish keeping and aquarium maintenance.
This site’s pieces are in-depth and well written.
What We Love: This site has excellent fish profiles including saltwater and freshwater, and fishkeeping guides full of all the facts you need to know about your new slippery little friend.
About: Mari, a young woman from the Netherlands, has always been a keen aquarist. She set up her site to show Aquariadise focuses on freshwater fishkeeping, including aquarium set-up info, plant/fish guides, and more.
What We Love: Her site has a great design and an amusing logo. Aquariadise has excellent plant and fish care-sheets, including interesting facts and other helpful tips and tricks.
She also has great product reviews to help you choose the best equipment to buy.
About: Aquarium Fish Blog is a site all about aquarium care, plants, decor, and fish reviews. Rashed Ahmed is the writer at Aquarium Fish Blog and loves to share his tips and tricks and ideas.
What We Love: Aquarium Fish Blog has helpful fish reviews, aquascaping tanks, plant info, fish profiles, and a lot more useful articles.
About: PetGuide.com is a blog with information about cats, dogs, and fish, with tips and advice about all three.
With Pet Care information and pet forums, PetGuide.com will help you keep the perfect pet!
What We Love: PetGuide covers a range of topics, including great aquatic plant, freshwater/saltwater aquariums, invertebrates, coral info, and loads of aquarium product reviews.
About: My Aquarium Club has fish keeping FAQs, information about maintaining freshwater and saltwater fish, tropical fish, amphibians and reptiles, and more.
What We Love: This site has super helpful articles featuring everything to do with keeping an aquarium; fish advice, fish/plant profiles including all the facts, and loads of other topics.
About: Oregon Coast Aquarium is a non-profit organization established in Newport, on the Oregon Coast.
With their mission to create unique and exciting experiences that unite you to the Oregon coast, they are a passionate team focused on marine conservation.
What We Love: This site has exciting experiences you can go to, such as animal exhibits, beach clean up days, and loads more inspiring events.
About: Centreville Aquarium was established on January 1, 2000, provide information on freshwater and saltwater, fish species, plants, and sharks, and also have FAQs and reviews.
What We Love: A highlight is their clever homemade GIFS of the fish in their aquarium. They have a monthly post called “Fish of the Month.”
Representing a new arrival in their stock, with plenty of information on the species.
About: Aquarium Info is an online guide to aquarium aquascaping, marine aquariums, fish information, and planted aquariums.
What We Love: This site has a handy “Beginners’ Guide,” including choosing the right fish for your tank, aquascaping basics, and a couple of DIY article guides.
About: Nippy Fish is a guide to all things about caring for Betta Fish. They have sections on fish behavior, equipment, and information to help you care for sick Bettas.
What We Love: This site has heaps of useful information about Betta fish. They’ve got great tips about dealing with diseases, breeding, and behavior, and great info on what is the “betta” equipment for your fish. 🙂
About: Guppy Aquarium is a blog all about Guppy and Livebearer fish. They have topics covering Basic Fish Care, tank set-up, breeding, and also an Aquarium Fish Glossary Terms.
What We Love: This site has excellent info on designing your guppy aquarium, useful breeding info and, and some helpful care guides.
About: The Fish Bowl Guide is all about caring for fish in a fishbowl. They have solutions to fish diseases and Fish Care on feeding your fish and cleaning your fishbowl.
What We Love: This site has excellent diy guides to setting up your fishbowl, caring for your fish, getting rid of diseases, and other useful essential tips.
About: Goldfisho writes about everything to do with goldfish. They have information on the goldfish diet, diseases, tank set-up, and other essential info.
What We Love: Goldfisho has an interesting article about the History of Goldfish, definitely worth a read!
About: Molly Fish is an online Care Guide that has information on types of Molly fish, how to care for a pregnant Molly, fish diseases, and the best tank mates.
What We Love: This site has lots of essential info of the different varieties of Molly fish, great when in need of researching the facts!
About: Tropical Fish Success has sections for info on tropical fish, maintaining your aquarium water in check, tank types, various equipment, and a cichlid gallery.
What We Love: This site has a broad range of fish profiles, including lots of interesting facts.
About: Scott Wells is the founder of The Cichlid Stage and has been a marine aquarium hobbyist for nearly twenty years. With his preferred fish species being Cichlids, Scott is a freshwater aquarist.
What We Love: This site posts some fascinating articles featuring fellow fish lovers interviewed. Worth a read.
About: Evan Baldonado is the founder of AquariumKids, is a Lincoln-Douglas debater, journalist, environmentalist, volunteer, science enthusiast, and coder.
What We Love: AquariumKids gets kids involved with great activities about protecting the environment.
About: Big Al’s Pets is a fish, dog, cat, reptile, and bird care site. They have tank equipment, aquarium decor, feeding equipment, food products, and also products for other animals.
What We Love: This site has an excellent section for saltwater/freshwater aquarium advice, also including pond maintenance articles.
About: Tennessee Aquarium is a marine aquarium blog that has Events and Programmes and 3D IMAX Virtual Reality Theatre.
What We Love: They have taken on a fascinating project called Project Rivers to protect the aquatic animals and understand more about how the changing environment impacts them. Worth a read!
About: Aquarists Online is a saltwater aquarium guide. This site has categories including marine conservation, DIY projects, articles about coral reefs, aquarium equipment, and more.
What We Love: This site has an excellent category full of DIY tips and tricks.
About: This site has excellent saltwater/freshwater guides, including aquarium set-up, equipment/supply info, choosing tank decor, and more.
What We Love: Practical fishkeeping is an online marine aquarium magazine, including the latest fishkeeping news, helpful tips on fish types, fish FAQs, aquarium equipment, and more.
About: Tropica is an online plant care guide including sections for choosing the right plants for your aquarium, plant profiles and facts, an inspirational photo gallery, and more.
What We Love: Tropica is a great online source if you’re looking for aquatic plant tips for your aquarium.
About: Home Aquaria is an online magazine that has articles on freshwater and saltwater fish info, aquascaping tips, aquarium gear, and helpful equipment reviews.
What We Love: This site has excellent reviews, helpful when you’re looking for tips on choosing tanks, aquarium supplies, etcetera.
About: Aquarium Base has pieces on freshwater and saltwater aquarium advice, cures for fish diseases, aquarium plant set-up, and aquarium product reviews.
What We Love: This aquarium blog has a vast range of useful product reviews.
About: Authority Aquarium is a fishkeeping advice aquarium blog with articles covering freshwater and saltwater fish information, filter reviews, tank set-ups, fish diseases, and their cures.
What We Love: Authority Aquarium has some excellent guides to setting up aquarium equipment, choosing the right tank, and other equipment reviews.
About: Microcosm Aquarium Explorer is a global aquarium resource for people interested in fish species, aquatic plants, reef keeping, Eco-Travel, diving, and photography.
What We Love: Great posts and a great resource on the great marine outdoors.
About: Shedd Aquarium was established in 1930, Chicago, the US They’ve got loads of fun experiences for all ages, including field trips, marine conservation lessons, and more!
What We Love: Interesting and interactive exhibits, they launch many conservation and research programs to protect and learn about sea life.
About: Over at Belle Isle Conservancy, you’ll find a team of passionate people all focused on restoring, preserving, and protecting Belle Isle for all to enjoy.
What We Love: An excellent place to find information this beautiful island in Detroit, Michigan. If you’re living or visiting the area, there’s information on the fish there and how you can get involved.
About: Maritime Aquarium has special events you can go to, exciting marine news, experiences everyone can have, and more!
What We Love: They’re passionate and a site for many conservation programs. Many are open to the public, where you can discover and volunteer for many different projects.
About: Aquarium of the Bay is where you can check out animal fact files, learn about conservation, and even plan an event in a beautiful aquatic scene.
What We Love: Excellent and fascinating animal info and interactions.
About: Marine Depot is an online aquarium store full of aquarium supplies, fish tanks, and much more marine equipment.
What We Love: An excellent feature is their extensive collection of ‘reef calculators’. They are an excellent resource to help you create and plan your aquarium set-up.
About: Aquarium Zen is your online guide to the perfect aquascaping techniques.
What We Love: Focusing on a unique type of aquarium, a living aquarium, it’s a tank, a living ecosystem and a priceless piece of art. Very unique and beautiful.
About: Aquarium City is an online fishkeeping resource.
What We Love: All sorts of content, including freshwater/saltwater fish, reptile, and coral fact files, a customer gallery, and other aquarium equipment.
About: Aquarium Pet Center is full of helpful info on how to help your pet live a happy, healthy life.
What We Love: They focus on all sorts of aquarium critters, not just fish. Great for if you’re looking to have more exciting or unusual dwellers in your tank.
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